Light, fresh flavors and the
best-quality ingredients are the essential elements in the Mediterranean-style
creations (above and left) of Cristal chef Alexandre Molina.
Some restaurants seem to really hit their straps as
the weather heats up, and Cristal Restaurant and Bar with a fresh, light
Mediterranean-style menu and large outdoor terrace is ideal for summer dining.
First appearances can sometimes sum a restaurant up, and this interior
is light and bright, with lots of natural sunlight coming in through the glass
roof.
It's a good indication of the kind of food on offer, with
Cristal's Executive Chef and General Manager Alexandre Molina designing a
creative menu driven by fresh seasonal produce.
The Frenchman hails from
Nice and brings a southern Mediterranean sensibility to his cooking, with lots
of seafood and olive oil and fresh herbs taking center stage.
He takes
inspiration from a range of cuisines and culinary traditions of France, Spain
and Italy as well as touches of inspiration from Middle Eastern, Moroccan and
Southeast Asian food.
This approach works well in an international city,
and the restaurant draws diverse clientele, including a strong Japanese
following.
One of the most popular dishes is a Spanish fideo (288
yuan/US$42.50 for two), which Molina says is based on a recipe handed down from
his grandmother.
Served in a cast iron pot, the fideo is similar to a
seafood paella; but instead of rice Molina uses short spaghetti cooked in a
bouillabaisse saffron broth.
It is a classic light and fresh dish with
whole prawns and lobster, mussels and clams, great to share with friends. With
plenty of bread to mop up the broth and a crisp white wine, this is prefect for
a balmy summer evening.
Also showcasing the chef's flair is a
spice-coated duck breast and boneless leg of squab (188 yuan) stuffed with goose
liver and gently wrapped in dough before being quickly fired. The flavors of the
dark, rich meat are highlighted by a dollop of fig and apple chutney served on
the side.
Molina certainly runs a tight ship, the service is timely and
efficient, and at the time of luncheon visit he is visiting tables, chatting to
customers.
That's to be expected from a chef schooled under Alain
Ducasse, in the three-star Michelin Louis XV Restaurant at the Hotel de Paris in
Monte Carlo.
Since he comes out of the hotel industry where he
specialized in desserts, diners should save some room for one of his creations.
These include a delightfully light and fluffy white chocolate souffl??
(78 yuan) served in a clay terrine. It is paired with a zingy peach sherbet and
fresh citrus and mango salad. Rounding out the dessert is a rich verrine of
brownie, which gives a nice textural counterpoint.
Cristal offers set
menus, from a very competitive 118-yuan three-course lunch deal to a 1,200-yuan
epicurean four-course meal with premium produce such as wild Spanish boar,
Hokaido scallops and toro tuna.
In August Cristal will offer a
three-course Gourmet Fest set menu for 299 yuan.
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