Cuiwei Mountain 翠微山 lies in the northern part of the
Shijingshan District in Beijing’s western suburbs. It is a tranquil, secluded
spot of great natural beauty famous for its compact arrangement of temple
buildings and many fine trees. The pines and cypresses of Cuiwei Mountain greatly
impressed the Qing scholar and poet Gong Zizhen. In one of his poems, Gong
extolled the four“hundred-foot-tall”white-barked cypresses by the spring on the
mountainside, and four pine trees at Dengwei Mountain in Suzhou, as“the eight
great pines under heaven.”Although the four white-barked cypresses in the poem
no longer exist, there are still numerous other pines and cypresses on Cuiwei
Mountain to be enjoyed. Among the fine specimens are the two ancient pines in
front of the Mahavira Hall (Daxiongbaodian) in the Fahai Temple. The trees stand
dignified, rising to a height of nearly 100 feet. With their trifurcated
branches and silvery white bark, they resemble silver dragons guarding the
courtyard. The crescent-shaped grove of ancient cypresses at the
southern foot of the mountain is even more impressive. These trees appear more
luxuriant against a background of the relatively barren mountain slopes of
northern China. The cypresses here vary enormously in height and stature; some
nearly touching the sky, others standing only a meter high, some with a
circumference of 1.5 meters, others as thick as a man’s thumb. The major attraction of Cuiwei Mountain is the Fahai
Temple, built in the Ming Dynasty at eh suggestion of Li Tong, a eunuch in the
service of Emperor Zhengtong. Construction of the temple began in 1439 and was
completed five years later. The temple buildings include the Mahavira Hall
(Daxiongbaodian), the Sangharama Hall, the Devaraja Hall, drum and bell towers,
monk’s residences and storerooms. The three paintings behind the Buddha statues portray
the three principal Bodhisattvas: Avalokitesvara (Guanyin), Manjusri and
Samantabhara. Of these, the portrait of Avalokitesvara (center) is the most
striking. The two paintings behind the statues of the 18 arhats contain
portraits of the Tathagata Buddha and flying Asparas set off by peonies, Chinese
roses, pipals and plantains. The caisson ceiling of the Mahavira Hall is finely
decorated with mandalas. In addition, the temple interior contains a large
bronze bell, carved wooden images of the Buddha, an offering table and a set of
ritual objects, all fine examples of Ming Dynasty craftsmanship
The wall paintings for which the Fahai
Temple is famous are found on the north wall behind the platform displaying the
Buddha statues, on both sides of the northern wall beside the entrance, and on
the two gables behind the statues of the 18 arhats. A total of nine paintings
survive to this day. On the northern wall beside the entrance is a diptych
entitled“Worshiping the Buddha and Promoting the Faith”made up of the figures of
the emperor and empress, eight protective Budddhist spirits, and 36 other
celestial beings. The tallest of the figures is 1.6 meters in height. The
emperor and empress are elaborately dressed and depicted in a highly poised
manner, while the rippling muscles of the protective spirits attest to their
strength.
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