Hot-to-trot
By admin on 2015-01-05

With China Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 wrapping up on Tuesday, a host of glamour-studded events, fashion forums and industry gatherings have been underway in Beijing – some have been touted as hot-to-trot while others have received a lukewarm reception.

Chilly: big names absent

Unfortunately a common trait of China Fashion Week is the notable absence of leading international fashion houses. Now in its 13th year, Autumn/ Winter 2010-2011 has sported little when it comes to the top international scene.

According to Wang Qing, chairman of China Fashion Week Organizing Committee, many famous international brands were keen to take to Beijing's catwalks but the rules of China Fashion Week excluded them.

"We insist on and pursue originality and exclusiveness, otherwise our fashion week will become purely commercial promotion, which is not the direction China Fashion Week goes," he said."Our standard is that the shows during our fashion week must not have been put on elsewhere," Wang added. "They fail to comply with exclusive work as required."

Established designers Mr Cabbeen, Lea Seong, Zou You, Dorian Ho and Frankie Xie have taken part in the week, however many of China's A-list designers were also noticeably absent. Zhang Zhaoda and Luo Zheng explained that their resources only allow for one fashion show a year and Spring/Summer is a more lucrative option. Liang Zi also said that she only participates in Spring/ Summer.

Mr Cabbeen, who's signature is not to reveal his first name, said that China Fashion Week was the most influential fashion platform in China and South Korean designer Lea Seong agreed that both Autumn/Winter and Spring/ Summer were important events.

"I have been here four times," Seong said after her show Friday afternoon, "and every year it's getting better."

Hot: men's fashion

Menswear label Notting Hill opened China Fashion Week Wednesday night, with Wang Qing explaining that a balance of menswear and womenswear is important for a mature fashion week. He said that the organizing committee is considering devoting the first half of subsequent weeks to menswear only.

Compared with this year's womenswear's performance, which was a bit boring and gray with the absence of all but a few top designers, menswear designs were colorful in both palette and style.

Cabbeen portrayed designer Mr Cabbeen's definition of New Heroism with its show Thursday night. Differing from the brand's previous shows, known for using entertainment celebrities as models complete with splendid runway design, this year's show was simplified to the extreme with a return to the nature of design. Inspired by hero films, the show presented the line's three collections: Cabbeen Lifestyle with The Lost Captain, Cabbeen Urban with The Holy Knight and Cabbeen Chic with The Heroic Thief.

Combing modern and retro elements and using simple geometric patterns and cold colors on knitted sweaters and leather, the designer explained that he wanted to bring out the confident and successful charm of modern men.

"In my understanding, today's urban men are the new heroes willing to challenge themselves and breakthrough traditions," Cabbeen said.

Another highlight of the week was Septwolves' Beyond the Light by French designer Daniel Faret. Blacks, grays and deep blues with business suit and urban military styles were used to portray a group of modern urban men – competitive in work but on good terms with their families and friends.

The show saw several contracts signed with European and American agencies. "Septwolves has always been trying to combine Chinese culture with Western fashion. Now, it is time for our style to influence the world," said board chairman Zhou Shaoxiong.

Warm: retrospectives

Retro and historic styles were dominant on the runways, both in womenswear ready to wear and haute couture. Hong Kong designer Dorian Ho took to the China Fashion Week catwalk for the first time with his latest collection Hollywood Glamour, anchoring on the 1920's and 30's, with a rejuvenation for the modern woman.

"There are retro elements in my design, I got inspiration from the charm and romanticism from the glamour years of young Hollywood," Ho explained.

With darling frills, delicate embroideries, dazzling beading and sequins, Ho's 40-piece collection ranged from various forms of sexy sleek bias dresses to body-hugging cocktail dresses with irregular flare skirts. Movement was created with silk satins, chiffon, taffeta, tulle and shantung, decorated with feathers, furs and bows, reviving antique colors of dusty rose, champagne, roseate, amethyst and midnight blue.

"My collection is more Western style; however, I adjusted the cut according to Eastern ladies' stature," Ho explained, "I want to show the confidence of Eastern women."

Chinese mainland designer Frankie Xie also expressed similar ideas in his women's ready to wear.

"The new collection shows the optimism, independence and power of modern women," Xie told the Global Times.

With the theme of metropolitan rock'n'roll, the 80-piece collection focused on redefining perceptions of beauty using the concept of "danxing mei" or "feminine beauty," with "more emphasis on women's strengths," Xie explained. Combining elegant lace with military style coats and using leather accented with metal buttons, the collection saw black and gray dominate the runway with peach, sea green and ginger brightening the occasion.

"For next season, the 1980's will still be the main inspiration and shoulders especially need attention." Xie added.

Lea Seong devoted her show Moonlight to her deceased father, largely using the blues, yellows and purples. "To me, blue and purple represent the earth and all living things on it, while yellow is like the bright moonlight, under which I always think of my father," she explained.

Seong said that the colors will be popular in this fall and winter.

Hot: emerging designers

Two years ago, chief editor of sohu.com's women's channel, Gao Luying, called for more young designers to be part of China Fashion Week. This year her wish came true with a host of emerging designers showing their wares.

The Academy of Arts & Design at Tsinghua University, together with Konkuk University and Kei Myung University from South Korea, jointly presented a show Friday with 120 designs from undergraduates at the three schools. Entitled Together, the show exhibited the students' insights on multiculturalism of modern life and their understanding of the current market and international fashion trends, by combining works of both creative concept experiments and practical and market-oriented ready-to-wear design.

Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology and Taiwan Shih Chien University presented an undergraduate show The New 10 Fashion, Saturday morning. Highlighting the students' attempt to create fashion trends instead of following them, the show included 101 pieces from 21 collections.

"The students are more mature than before, including their proper use of materials, their ideas and their boldness to break traditions," commented Wang Qing.

Hot: contests

The 2010 China Fashion Designer and Creative Design Contest was launched Thursday with the theme of A More Open China. The event attracted over 1,000 contestants last year and is inviting professional and independent designers to enter their best cre-ations with results revealed at the 2010 China Keqiao International Textile Expo in Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province in late October.

The Yingdak Leather Design Contest launched Saturday afternoon. The contest, spon-sored by Tianjin Yingdak, is calling for leather designs from China with the require-ments of combining Chinese elements with international leather-design trends. Winners will have the opportunity to exhibit their designs in Italy and the top winner will be awarded with a study program in Denmark.

"The future and energy of Chinese design rely on the young talents," said Wang, "but they also need to be examined by market to truly grow up."